A few thoughts from having seen similar Toyota/Lexus power liftgate issues: The fact that it only groans during the last 6 inches of closing doesn't automatically mean the left power strut/actuator is bad. Before spending money, I'd check: Ball studs and pivot points The power strut joints can wear or bind. Disconnect the strut (carefully support the hatch) and move the hatch manually to check for binding. Hinge alignment If the liftgate is slightly out of alignment, the actuator has to work hardest during the final pull-down phase. Look for uneven panel gaps or signs the hatch has been adjusted previously. Power latch assembly The latch at the bottom can make a groaning or straining sound as it cinches the hatch closed. Have someone close it while you listen at the latch versus the left actuator. Compare actuator temperatures After several open/close cycles, a failing motor often runs noticeably warmer than the opposite side. If it really is the left power stay (power liftgate strut): OEM Lexus pricing around $400-$600 per side is unfortunately typical. Check: eBay (used OEM units) LKQ salvage yards Car-part.com (searches salvage inventory nationwide) LexusPartsNow Bell Lexus Parts Longo Lexus Parts My preference would be a used OEM actuator over a cheap aftermarket unit. The liftgate control module is sensitive to motor current and position feedback, and aftermarket power struts can be hit-or-miss. One more question: does the noise sound like: a mechanical creak/groan (plastic or metal binding), a motor straining/electric groan, or a ratcheting/grinding noise? That distinction usually narrows it down pretty quickly between the actuator, hinges, and latch.

As of current, my step-daughter drives our 2011 CT 200h and if or when our CT finally dies my wife wants her to get a UX and now Lexus will discontinue the UX which will most likely steer my step-daughter to the NX. Lexus please keep the UX.

Yes, the same thing is happening on my 2019 tailgate.

Very normal ;)

For a 1990-92 LS400, your symptoms are very common: Odometer stopped: often an odometer gear or cluster electronics issue. Speedometer works but illumination doesn't: these early LS400 clusters are known for backlighting and needle-lighting failures, power supply issues, and aging components. Owners have been discussing these exact problems for years. [clublexus.com], [Lexus LS40...luster ...] A shop that appears to specialize in these clusters is Tanin Auto Electronix. They advertise mail-in repair service specifically for 1990-2000 Lexus LS400 instrument clusters, state they've repaired these units since 2005, and note that sending in your original cluster preserves the odometer mileage. They also mention keeping parts in stock and offering repair rather than requiring a replacement cluster. [taninautoe...tronix.com], [taninautoe...tronix.com] Regarding cost and turnaround: Their published base diagnostic/labor charge is $139.99, with final repair cost depending on the specific faults found. [taninautoe...tronix.com], [taninautoe...tronix.com] They state a typical turnaround of about 1 to 2 weeks, including repair and delivery. [taninautoe...tronix.com] For DIY removal instructions, the old LexLS tutorials are still among the best references for early LS400s: How to Disassemble the Instrument Cluster covers removal and disassembly of 1990-92 clusters. [Lexus LS40...nt Cluster] How to Repair Partially Illuminated/Lit Instrument Cluster Needles discusses the lighting problems common on these cars. [Lexus LS40...luster ...] One thing I'd recommend before shipping the cluster: take photos of the odometer reading area (even though it's no longer advancing) and keep a written record of the vehicle mileage history. That can be helpful documentation if anyone ever questions the mileage discrepancy created by the failed odometer.